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The Fastest Way to Plant Bulbs: How to Use a Bulb Planter
Lee Burkhill: Award Winning Designer & BBC 1's Garden Rescue Presenters Official Blog
Hands up if you've ordered way too many spring bulbs and are fearful of just how much effort its going to take to plant them? Fear not, this guide will show you the fastest tool for planting bulbs, the long handled bulb planter. I'm going to show you how you can plant 100 bulbs in less than an hour!
Quick Answer
A bulb planter is a simple tool that removes a plug of soil so you can drop a bulb straight in at the right depth, then replace the plug on top. Handheld planters suit small quantities and containers, long-handled planters let you work standing up for borders and lawns, and drill-powered augers speed up planting hundreds of bulbs in one afternoon. As a rule of thumb, plant bulbs at three times their own height, water in if the soil is dry, and mark the spot so you do not disturb them later in the year.
When it comes to planting hundreds of spring bulbs, any gardener will tell you it can be back-breaking work. That is, unless you have the hidden tool all us pros use for speedy bulb planting. I am talking about one of the most useful tools in any gardener’s kit: the humble bulb planter.
Now, I know what you’re thinking. Do you really need a specific tool just for planting bulbs? Can’t you just use a trowel or dig a hole with your hands? Well, yes, you could. But if you’ve got dozens, or heaven forbid hundreds, of bulbs to get in the ground, trust me, a bulb planter is going to save your back, your knees, and quite frankly, your sanity.
I’ve been gardening for over 35 years now, and I’ve planted more bulbs than I care to count. I’ve done it the hard way, crawling around on my knees with a trowel, digging individual holes that are never quite the right depth. And I’ve done it the smart way, with a proper bulb planter that lets me stand upright and plant bulbs at lightning speed. There’s no contest, honestly. Once you’ve used a decent bulb planter, you’ll never go back.
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What is a Bulb Planter and Why Do You Need One?
A bulb planter is essentially a cylindrical tool that removes a plug of soil, creating the perfect-sized hole for your bulbs. The genius of it is that it does three things simultaneously: it creates a hole at the exact depth you need, it removes the soil in one go, and it allows you to drop that plug of soil right back on top of your bulb once it’s planted. It’s gardening efficiency at its finest.
The main advantage is speed.
When you’re planting spring bulbs in autumn, you want to get the job done before the weather turns properly miserable. A long-handled bulb planter means you can work standing up, moving quickly across your borders without constantly getting up and down. Your knees will thank you, especially if you’re planting in heavy clay soil like we’ve got here in the north. If you’re new to bulb planting, check out my complete spring bulb planting guide for timing and varieties.
The other massive benefit is consistency. Every bulb goes in at the same depth, which means they’ll all flower at roughly the same time. There’s nothing worse than planting daffodils at random depths and ending up with a staggered, messy display that never quite looks right. With a bulb planter, you get uniform planting depth every single time.
Types of Bulb Planters: Which One Should You Buy?
Now, not all bulb planters are created equal. You’ve got three main types worth knowing about: handheld models, long-handled versions, and drill-powered augers for the toughest jobs. The handheld ones look a bit like a metal cup with a handle and a T-bar grip. They’re cheap, usually around a fiver, and they work brilliantly for smaller bulbs like crocuses or grape hyacinths. You kneel down, press the planter into the soil, twist it slightly, and pull out a plug of earth. Job done.
But here’s where I’m going to save you some money and some backache. If you’re serious about planting bulbs, invest in a long-handled bulb planter. Yes, they cost more, usually between twenty and forty quid, but they’re a genuine game changer. This is the bulb planter I recommend, from Kent & Stowe, as it’s super tough and at a good price point for most gardeners.
You stand on the footplate at the base, push it into the soil with your body weight, and pull out a perfect plug without bending over once. I can plant a hundred daffodil bulbs in less than an hour with a long-handled planter. Try doing that on your knees with a trowel, and you’ll be hobbling around like you’ve done a marathon.
Drill-powered bulb planter augers
There is a third option worth knowing about if you are planting bulbs in genuine bulk or working through heavy, compacted ground: the drill-powered bulb auger. These are oversized drill bits that fit into an ordinary cordless drill and corkscrew their way into the soil, pulling up a neat plug in seconds rather than requiring any body weight or pushing at all.
They come into their own on very hard or stony ground where even a long-handled planter struggles, and for anyone planting several hundred bulbs across a lawn or meadow area in one session. The trade-off is that they need a reasonably powerful drill to run for any length of time, and they are less precise on depth than a planter with marked measurements. I would keep a hand planter or long-handled model as your main tool, and treat an auger as a specialist add-on for the toughest jobs rather than your everyday planter.
🛒 Buy a Bulb Planter Drill Auger on Amazon UK
Choosing the Best Bulb Planter: Features That Matter
Look for one with a comfortable grip, sturdy construction, stainless steel bombproof, and depth markers on the side. Those markers are crucial because different bulbs need different planting depths.
As a rule of thumb, you plant bulbs at about three times their height, but having those measurements right there on your tool means no guesswork. For specific bulb types and their planting depths, have a look at my daffodil planting guide, which covers all the basics.
Serrated teeth around the base of the cylinder are another feature worth checking for. They help the planter bite into tougher or stony soil far more easily than a smooth edge, giving you one clean push into the ground rather than several attempts. Weight matters too. Bulb planters are generally light tools, but if you are planting a large number of bulbs in one session, a slightly heavier stainless steel head with a lighter handle often feels more comfortable over a long afternoon than an all-metal design.
The release mechanism is another thing to consider. Some planters have a metal plate on the side that you press with your thumb to eject the soil plug with the hand planters. Others require you to turn them upside down and shake. The thumb release versions are definitely easier to use and speed things up considerably when you’re planting dozens of bulbs.
However, all of the above break really quickly, especially with heavy soil, which is why I only use the long-handled bulb planter, as you just press then pull.
Best Bulb Planters to Buy in the UK
If you want a straight recommendation rather than trawling through every option yourself, these are the models I actually use and point clients toward. I have chosen one for each budget and situation, from a top-end long-handled planter down to a budget option for occasional use.
🛒 Buy the Kent & Stowe Long Handled Bulb Planter on Amazon UK
🛒 Buy the GARDENA Bulb Planter on Amazon UK
🛒 Buy the Spear & Jackson Stainless Bulb Planter on Amazon UK
Using a Bulb Planter in a Lawn
One of the best uses for a bulb planter is naturalising bulbs directly into grass, sometimes called planting bulbs in the green or naturalising in turf. This is how you get that classic drift of daffodils or crocuses appearing through a lawn each spring, the effect you see at gardens like Great Dixter, without digging up the whole area.
Scatter your bulbs randomly across the grass exactly as you would in a border, then use the bulb planter to remove a plug of turf and soil at each spot where a bulb has landed. Drop the bulb in pointy end up, and replace the turf plug on top, pressing it down firmly with your foot so the grass knits back together. Within a couple of weeks you will barely be able to see where you have worked, and by spring you will have a natural-looking drift rather than obvious rows.
Choose a spot where you can leave the grass uncut for six weeks after flowering, since mowing too early removes the leaves before they have fed the bulb for next year. For more on this technique, my guide to planting bulbs in the green covers the wider approach in detail.
Preparing Your Soil for Bulb Planting
Before you start planting, you need to think about your soil. Bulb planters work best in soil that’s been loosened up a bit. If you’re working with compacted clay or rock-hard summer soil, you’re going to struggle. Give the area a good watering the day before if it’s dry, and consider loosening the top few inches with a fork.
Bulbs hate sitting in waterlogged soil over winter. They’ll rot faster than you can say “spring display.” So if your soil is heavy clay, mix in some horticultural grit or sharp sand to improve drainage. You can add this directly into each planting hole as you go, or work it into the whole border beforehand.
But the better approach is to plant bulbs only where your soil won’t be waterlogged for long periods, as grit will only get you so far. For more tips on improving clay soil, my no dig gardening guide has loads of practical advice.
How to Use a Bulb Planter: Step-by-Step Guide
Right, let’s get to the actual planting technique. This method works whether you’re using a handheld or long-handled planter.
Step 1: Plan Your Spacing
First, work out your spacing. For daffodils and tulips, I plant them about six inches apart. Smaller bulbs like crocuses can go closer, about three inches.
Don’t plant them in rigid rows unless you’re going for a formal look. Natural drifts look miles better, so I usually scatter handfuls of bulbs gently across the border and plant them where they fall. This gives you a naturalistic look that’s far more attractive than regimented lines.
Step 2: Position and Push
Position your bulb planter over where you want to plant. If you’re using a long-handled version, place your foot on the footplate and push down firmly. The planter will slice through the soil and you’ll feel it stop when it reaches the right depth.
Most planters have measurement marks on the sides, so aim for about 6 inches (10cm) for large bulbs like daffodils, 4 to 5 inches for tulips, and 3 inches for smaller bulbs like crocuses.
Step 3: Twist and Remove
Now here’s the clever bit. Give the planter a slight twist to cut through any roots, then pull it straight back up. The plug of soil should come up inside the planter.
If it doesn’t, your soil might be too dry or too compacted. Some planters have a release mechanism, usually a metal plate on the side that you press with your thumb, which drops the soil plug out cleanly. Others require you to turn them upside down and give them a shake.
Step 4: Drop Your Bulb
Drop your bulb into the hole, pointy end up. This is important, Ninjas. The pointy end is where the shoot emerges, and bulbs planted upside down will waste energy trying to right themselves.
If you’re not sure which end is which, plant them on their side and they’ll figure it out themselves, though this does slow down emergence slightly. Check out my spring bulbs planting guide for variety-specific tips.
Step 5: Replace and Firm
Once the bulb is in, simply drop the soil plug back into the hole on top of the bulb.
Press down gently with your foot to firm it in and eliminate air pockets. That’s it. Move on to the next one. You’ll get into a rhythm: push, twist, pull, drop bulb, replace plug, firm. It becomes almost meditative after a while.
Top Tips for Faster Bulb Planting
Here are a few things I’ve learned over three decades of bulb planting that’ll make your life easier.
A) Plant in Groups for Maximum Impact
First, plant in groups. Five bulbs minimum, preferably more. A single daffodil looks lost and sad. A drift of twenty looks spectacular. Layer your bulbs, too.
Plant larger bulbs like daffodils deeper, then come back and plant crocuses or other small bulbs in the same area at a shallower depth. You’ll get waves of colour as the smaller bulbs flower first, followed by the bigger ones. My cottage garden perennials guide shows you how to combine bulbs with perennials for extended interest.
B) Water Thoroughly After Planting
Second, water them in after planting if the soil is dry. This settles the soil around the bulbs and gets them started on root development. They need to establish roots before winter sets in. Please don’t overdo it though, you want moist soil, not a bog garden!
C) Mark Your Planting Areas
Third, mark where you’ve planted. I use short bamboo canes or labels because come spring, you’ll forget exactly where everything went, and you might accidentally dig them up when you’re tidying borders. I’ve done this more times than I care to admit. A simple marker now saves disappointment later.
Common Bulb Planter Mistakes to Avoid
Even with the best tools, there are a few pitfalls to watch out for. The biggest mistake I see is trying to use a bulb planter in bone-dry or heavily compacted soil. It just doesn’t work. The planter won’t penetrate properly, and you’ll end up with shallow holes and frustrated shoulders. Always water the area 24 hours before if the soil is dry.
Another common error is forcing the bulb planter at an angle. Keep it vertical, otherwise you’ll get wonky holes, and your bulbs might not sit properly at the base. The bulb needs good contact with the soil below to develop roots effectively.
Don’t forget to adjust your depth for different bulb sizes. Those measurement markers aren’t just decorative. A crocus planted at daffodil depth will take ages to emerge, if it makes it at all.
Use the three times the bulb height rule religiously.
When to Plant Bulbs Using Your Bulb Planter
Timing matters as much as technique.
Spring-flowering bulbs like daffodils, tulips, and crocuses need to be planted in autumn, ideally between September and November. Plant before the first hard frost to give them time to establish roots. For a complete planting calendar, my monthly planting guide covers what to plant when throughout the year.
Summer-flowering bulbs like alliums and lilies are planted in spring, usually March to May. The soil needs to have warmed up a bit, and the risk of hard frosts should be past. Your bulb planter works exactly the same way regardless of the season.
Maintaining Your Bulb Planter
Clean your bulb planter after use. Soil left on it will rust the metal and make it harder to use next time. A quick rinse with the hose and a wipe with an oily rag will keep it in good nick for years. Store it somewhere dry over winter.
If you’ve got a wooden-handled version, check the handle annually for splinters or cracks. A bit of linseed oil rubbed into the wood keeps it in good condition. The metal parts benefit from a spray with WD40 or similar before winter storage to prevent rust.
🛒 Buy Linseed Oil for Tool Handles on Amazon UK
🛒 Buy WD40 for Rust Prevention on Amazon UK
Frequently Asked Questions About Bulb Planters
How deep should I plant bulbs with a bulb planter?
As a general rule, plant bulbs at three times their own height. This works out at around 10cm for large bulbs like daffodils, 4 to 5 inches for tulips, and about 3 inches for smaller bulbs like crocuses. Most bulb planters have depth markings on the side so you do not need to measure each one individually.
Can I use a bulb planter in a lawn?
Yes, and it is one of the best tools for the job. Scatter bulbs across the grass, remove a plug of turf at each spot with the planter, drop the bulb in, and replace the plug on top. This is the classic method for naturalising daffodils and crocuses through a lawn.
What is the difference between a handheld and long-handled bulb planter?
A handheld planter is used kneeling down and suits small quantities, containers, and tight spaces. A long-handled planter has a footplate so you can push it into the ground standing up, which is far quicker and kinder on your back and knees when planting large numbers of bulbs across a border or lawn.
Do I need a bulb planter, or can I just use a trowel?
A trowel works fine for a handful of bulbs. Once you are planting more than a couple of dozen, a bulb planter is significantly faster, gives you consistent depth every time, and saves a lot of kneeling and digging. If you plant bulbs every autumn, it is one of the best value tools you can own.
Can a bulb planter be used in clay soil?
Yes, but heavy clay makes the job harder on any tool. Loosen the top few inches with a fork first, and water the area the day before if it is dry and hard. A long-handled planter with a serrated base copes with clay far better than a lightweight handheld model.
How do I stop my bulb planter rusting?
Rinse off any soil after use and dry it before storing. A wipe with an oily rag or a light spray of WD40 on the metal parts before winter storage prevents rust. Wooden handles benefit from an annual rub of linseed oil to stop them splitting or cracking.
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Subscribe on YouTube, it’s freeFinal Thoughts on Bulb Planters
A bulb planter isn’t just a gadget for the sake of it. It’s a properly handy tool that makes one of autumn’s most important jobs faster, easier, and more enjoyable. Whether you go for a handheld model or splash out on a long-handled version, you’ll plant more bulbs, plant them better, and actually look forward to bulb planting time instead of dreading the knee ache.
So grab yourself a bulb planter, get those bulbs in the ground before the first frosts, and come spring, you’ll have a garden absolutely bursting with colour. Bob’s your uncle, spring sorted. For more bulb planting inspiration, check out my complete spring bulb collection guide, which covers everything from snowdrops to alliums.
Happy Gardening!
Lee Burkhill
Lee Burkhill, known as the Garden Ninja, is an award-winning garden designer and horticulturist with over 30 years of gardening experience and 15 years as a professional garden designer. A qualified RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) professional, Lee specialises in sustainable garden design and practical horticultural advice. He designs and presents on BBC1’s Garden Rescue and in leading gardening publications. Lee combines three decades of hands-on gardening knowledge with professional design qualifications to help gardeners create beautiful, functional outdoor spaces.
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