You may have noticed tall, thin, segmented green spikes emerging in your flower beds, driveway, cracks in paving or behind the shed and then realised it's a mare's tail. This weed is remarkably resilient and can survive in nearly all conditions and environments. But if mares' tail or horsetail weeds are causing mayhem in your garden, then this guide on how to get rid of mares' tail should help!
Mare's tail is one of the most recognisable and fear-inducing weeds you can find in your garden. This nearly indestructible evergreen weed pokes up from the ground with its thin spikes, both stem and leaf in one. Whether you have a gorgeously manicured, weeded and curated garden or a rubble-filled building site, mare's tail will live and thrive in any conditions.
Mares tail is sometimes known as horse tail or Horsetail; all of which are the same weed. Horsetail is mare's tail and vice versa. Though the correct common name is mare's tail, if we're being pedantic!
Look at Percy, my Border Terrier, below, looking frustrated at this Mare's tail weed!
Mare’s tail (also known as horsetail)is one of the oldest plants on Earth, dating back over 100 million years, even pre-dating the dinosaurs. It belongs to the genus Equisetum, a group of ancient, non-flowering plants that reproduce by spores, not seeds. A bit similar to ferns in the way that they reproduce. This makes them super tough and very difficult to remove or manage which is why so many of you ask me how to get rid of mares tail.
Despite its graceful name, mare’s tail is one of the most invasive, persistent and difficult-to-eradicate weeds found in UK gardens. It spreads rapidly underground and can dominate borders, paving cracks, lawns and allotments if left unchecked. Most gardeners opt to reduce Mares tails impact rather than remove it entirely due to the struggle to kill it completely.
It's easy to spot mare's tail as its long, thin stem/leaf and summer foliage looks a bit like a horse's tail, hence the name. In the United States, people call it horsetail weed, whereas in the United Kingdom and Europe, it's commonly referred to as mare's tail.
Mare’s tail has two distinct growth stages each year:
Speak to any gardener or allotment owner and mention mares' tails and groans and disgusted stares will meet you. This is usually because mares' tail is a near-endless problem for all gardeners, whether growing vegetables in a kitchen garden or wildflower meadows in rural areas. Let's take a look at why mares' tails are so difficult to get rid of.
Horsetail has an incredibly deep and resilient root system composed of rhizomes, which are horizontal underground stems. These rhizomes can penetrate more than two metres into the soil, allowing the plant to access deep water reserves and nutrients that many other plants cannot reach. This depth also makes it extremely difficult to fully remove, as the roots often grow well below the reach of typical cultivation tools.
One of the most persistent characteristics of marestail is its ability to regenerate from the tiniest piece of root or rhizome left behind in the soil. Even a fragment as small as a centimetre can develop into a new plant, making complete eradication a real challenge without meticulous removal and follow-up treatments.
The above-ground stems of mares/horsetail are coated with silica, a gritty compound that makes them unusually tough. This not only gives the plant a rough texture but also protects it from being grazed by herbivores, reduces water loss during drought conditions, and renders many common weedkillers ineffective, as the coating prevents effective absorption.
Mares' tail spreads predominantly through its subterranean rhizome system, allowing it to colonise large areas quickly. These rhizomes can travel laterally beneath the soil surface and produce new shoots at considerable distances from the original plant. It’s not uncommon for new growth to appear metres away, giving the impression that the plant has suddenly ‘popped up’ elsewhere in the garden.
While complete eradication may take several seasons if not decades, consistent organic control can significantly reduce and suppress mare’s tail over time. Especially if you make it part of your regular gardening routine, Ninjas. A bit like watering plants in hot weather, monthly Mare's tail pulling and smothering can help reduce its invasiveness in your gardens.
Healthier, looser soil supports stronger plants, vegetables, crops and suppresses mare’s tail through plant competition.
In less cultivated areas, try planting vigorous, spreading groundcovers to compete with and shade out the mare’s tail. Options include:
These won’t eradicate Mare's tail it, but they can help smother and reduce light reaching its shoots.
Patience is key when trying to remove or reduce Mare's tail. Organic control methods may take 2–3 years to show major results, but they are effective when done consistently. The goal is to:
You may just think 'I'll reach for the weed killer', but trust me when I say that it's actually less effective than manual methods. It damages other plants, is expensive and takes multiple applications to even make a dent in Mares' tail.
Many guides on Mares tail list its toxicity and talk about alkaloids like palustrine being harmful. Whilst this is true, you would have to eat a ton of it to get enough mare's tail in your system to become ill. The chances of that are extremely unlikely unless you intentionally consume it or mistake it for another plant and make an herbal tea out of it.
While occasional contact isn’t dangerous, horsetail should never be ingested by animals or children. It’s best to remove it from areas where pets or young children might have unsupervised access, especially really young infants who have a tendency to eat things that they find. Never use it in homemade herbal remedies with Mares tail.
Glyphosate is a non-selective, systemic herbicide. This means it kills most green plants it touches by being absorbed through the leaves and then transported throughout the plant, all the way down to the roots. It’s commonly sold under brand names like Roundup. However, with Mares' tail, that silica coating means it's least effective on this weed compared to creeping buttercup, couch grass or bindweed.
The quick answer is no, you shouldn't.
It has a very low efficacy rate with mares' tail due to the waxy silica coating on the leaves and also a lack of permeable foliage, which is how glyphosate enters plants to kill them. That said, some gardeners will try glyphosate to get rid of mare's tail, which is why I give instructions below to get the best effects. However, I myself would not use it and it's mega harmful to the environment and used by beginner gardeners spraying it with abandon causes all sorts of knock-on issues as it drifts on the breeze and kills your prize herbaceous perennials!
If you are going to use weed killer, then here's some guidance if that's what you choose to do (though I urge you to consider the smother method instead!).
Limited Effectiveness on Horsetail: Mare’s tail has poor leaf surface absorption and a deep root system, so glyphosate is only partially effective without repeat treatments and proper technique.
Non-Selective: It will kill everything it contacts, including grasses, flowers, and crops, so care must be taken when applying.
Environmental Concerns: Glyphosate is under scrutiny for its environmental and health impacts. Some countries and councils have banned or restricted their use. Always check local regulations and consider safer alternatives if possible.
Persistence of Rhizomes: Even after dieback above ground, rhizomes can survive and resprout. Total eradication may take several seasons of dedicated treatment.
Not Pet- or Child-Friendly During Use: Glyphosate should be kept well away from children and animals until fully dried and absorbed.
Don’t rotavate the area – it chops up roots and helps spread it.
Don’t ignore it – even one plant left to grow will feed the underground network.
Don’t rely on a single control method – success comes from combining multiple strategies.
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So there we have it, my best methods of getting rid of mare's tail and hopefully avoiding horrible weed killers in the process. Yes, it's hard work, and you may need to accept having some marigold in your garden, but by using the smother method and other organic manual methods, you can keep control of this weed and continue enjoying your garden.
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Happy Gardening!
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