Prairie planting has absolutely taken the UK gardening world by storm, and for excellent reasons! Although many prairie plants are not native to northern Europe, many have been part of our garden history for almost 200 years, and, with a few exceptions, they have behaved well. What started as an American phenomenon has evolved into something uniquely British, adapted to our climate whilst capturing that essential prairie spirit. The world-famous Piet Oudolf was one of the forerunners in bringing prairie borders to the masses. His creative designs featuring informal shapes, block planted with the same species or colour, have become his trademark.
If you’re still scratching your head, and you don’t want to open a Google sinkhole in searching through millions of pictures, then think of those huge herbaceous borders you see at the RHS gardens and stately homes as a starting point or watch the video below of my prairie border guide.
Prairie borders are a beautiful, informal planting style that can work in a variety of garden sizes. They are also relatively fuss-free and can bring a sense of calm to a garden. If you want to see whether prairie planting is for you, then read on!
The easiest way to think of a prairie border is to look at its origins in the USA. If you visualise being slapped bang in the middle of the US map, then you’d be on the Great Plains of America. Vast distances that centuries ago were covered in swathes of grasses, flowers and other flora. That is, before mankind came along to start carving it up for infrastructure. Nature created soft blocks of colour and form as plants self-seeded, colonising large areas.
In prairie planting, you’re aiming to try and create this natural flow of plants. You’re using a distinct set of plants and grasses. Forget a little of this and some of that. In prairie borders, you’re restricting the number of species and increasing the amount you plant.
Let me clear up the confusion that trips up so many gardeners! Prairie planting is not the same as meadow planting in the traditional sense. Meadows are mown in mid summer, traditionally for hay and then re-grows the following season. Prairie’s may never be mown but are sometimes burned in late winter to get rid of invasive weeds.
The key differences that matter for UK gardeners:
Traditional Prairie Characteristics:
UK Garden Prairie Adaptations:
Here’s something that might surprise you: Most are an excellent source of nectar for pollinators in late summer and autumn, at a time when our native species have little to offer. This timing perfectly fills a crucial gap in our British wildlife calendar, making prairie planting not just beautiful but ecologically vital.
They are also strong growers on fertile soils, which is fantastic news for most UK gardens. Unlike the lean soils of American prairies, our generally fertile British soils actually suit many prairie plants brilliantly once we understand how to work with them.
Why Prairie Plants Thrive in Britain:
Prairie garden borders offer a delightful blend of beauty and practicality for any outdoor space. These borders, inspired by the vast expanses of North American prairies, bring a natural charm to your garden while providing numerous benefits. With their diverse mix of native grasses and wildflowers, prairie borders attract pollinators like bees and butterflies, enhancing biodiversity and promoting a healthy ecosystem.
Prairie planting typically requires full sun due to the types of plants commonly used. That is not to say that some dappled shade is a no-go. However, if you want the height from grasses such as Miscanthus or Calamagrostis, these will only grow properly in a sunny site. If not, they will either simply cover the area with a mass of low-growing foliage or begin to lean towards the light source.
Prairie planting doesn’t work in heavy shade. Prairie borders only work in full sun as they mimic the natural habitat of the wide grasslands in the USA. Often, they are baked in full summer sun and then flooded in the winter.
If you’re dealing with shade then a different planting palette will be required, I have discussed a variety of shade-loving plants here. This is where you may be using a prairie-style layout but having to switch plant focus onto other foliage-heavy plantings instead.
There a couple of hard and fast rules for prairie border plants which is mainly about repeating key plants in drifts to give that effortless look of naturalistic planting. Prairire planting is not a case of one of this and one of that, its choosing a few species and then repeating them throughout your flower bed The best way to choose plants is to go back to visualising what the Great Plains are made up of. Large areas of grasses and self-seeded herbaceous plants are rich with pollen.
These plants have an airy, almost translucent quality about them. No dense covering or cast shade; often experienced with a border of evergreen shrubs. Each area of planting will have a see-through nature allowing other layers to be seen.
See how light and airy the planting is above, you can see the layers between plants? These layers are also going to have multiple heights. So, you’ll need a mix of height from the grasses and mass from the herbaceous plants. Here are a few of the best herbaceous plants for a prairie border. I haven’t covered annuals or other seed varieties, as I find these are harder for beginners to work with however, below is my ultimate mix of prairie plants and how to create the perfect naturalistic flower bed!
Let’s get into the nitty-gritty of plant selection! After years of designing prairie borders for clients across the UK, I can tell you that choosing the right plants makes the difference between a spectacular display and a disappointing muddle. The secret lies in understanding the three-layer approach that professional designers like Piet Oudolf use to create those breathtaking displays you see at places like Hauser & Wirth.
Think of prairie planting like a well-orchestrated symphony. You need your background musicians (matrix plants), your soloists (primary flowering plants), and your occasional flourishes (scatter plants). Get this balance right, and you’ll have visitors asking how on earth you achieved such a professional look!
These are your workhorses – planted in large numbers to create the backbone of your prairie border. They’re typically grasses that provide structure, movement, and that essential prairie feeling.
| Plant Name | Height | Spread | Key Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stipa tenuissima | 60cm | 45cm | Feathery, blonde seedheads that catch every breeze |
| Stipa gigantea | 2.5m | 1.2m | Architectural golden oat-like heads on tall stems |
| Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’ | 1.5m | 1m | Narrow leaves, elegant silver plumes |
| Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ | 1.8m | 60cm | Upright habit, early flowering grass |
This absolutely stunning grass is the queen of movement in prairie borders. The incredibly fine, feathery seedheads catch the slightest breeze and create the most mesmerising effect as they sway backwards and forwards. In my experience, this is the one grass that visitors always comment on – there’s something hypnotic about watching those blonde, silky plumes dancing in the wind. It’s perfectly suited to prairie planting because it provides that essential soft texture whilst being incredibly drought-tolerant once established. The bonus is that it self-seeds gently, creating naturalistic drifts without becoming invasive. Just be aware that in very wet winters, it can sometimes behave as an annual, but the self-seeding usually means you’ll have replacement plants appearing.
If Stipa tenuissima is the queen of movement, then this magnificent grass is the architectural king of the prairie border. Those towering golden oat-like seedheads create the most incredible see-through screens that you can plant flowers in front of or behind. I use this extensively in client gardens because it provides height and drama without being solid or blocking views. It’s absolutely perfect for prairie planting because it mimics the tall prairie grasses of the American Midwest whilst being completely reliable in our British climate. The seedheads persist well into winter, providing fantastic structural interest when everything else has died back. Plant it towards the back of your border where it can reach its full majestic height.
This elegant grass brings an entirely different quality to prairie borders with its narrow, arching foliage and gorgeous silver-pink plumes that appear in autumn. What I love about ‘Gracillimus’ is how it creates this lovely fountain effect – the leaves arch outwards from the centre, creating perfect rounded clumps that provide excellent structure. It’s ideal for prairie planting because it offers essential vertical interest while being incredibly low-maintenance. The autumn colour is fantastic too – the whole plant turns golden-bronze before the plumes appear. Unlike some Miscanthus varieties, this one doesn’t spread aggressively, so you can plant it with confidence knowing it won’t take over your border.
This is my go-to grass for clients who want instant impact and reliability. ‘Karl Foerster’ produces those lovely upright feathery plumes much earlier in the season than most grasses, often by June, which means you get a longer period of interest. It’s absolutely brilliant for prairie planting because it provides that essential vertical structure whilst being incredibly well-behaved. Calamagrostis forms tight clumps that never spread or become invasive. The plumes start off soft and feathery, then mature to lovely golden-brown seed heads that persist through winter. It’s also one of the most drought-tolerant grasses I know, making it perfect for our increasingly unpredictable summers.
These provide your main colour and structure. Plant them in groups of 5-7 for maximum impact in smaller gardens, or drifts of 15+ in larger spaces.
The backbone of any successful prairie border! These late-season bloomers provide essential nectar when most other plants are finishing.
| Plant Name | Height | Flowering Period | Flower Colour |
|---|---|---|---|
| Echinacea purpurea | 90cm | July-September | Pink-purple with prominent cone |
| Echinacea ‘White Swan’ | 75cm | July-September | Pure white with orange cone |
| Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’ | 60cm | August-October | Golden yellow with dark centre |
| Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’ | 90cm | July-September | Copper-red with yellow edges |
This is the absolute star of any prairie border and the plant that probably brings more butterflies to my client’s gardens than any other. The distinctive cone-shaped flowers with their drooping petals are instantly recognisable and provide nectar for months on end. What makes Echinacea perfect for prairie planting is its incredible toughness. Once established, Echinacea laughs at drought and just keeps producing more flowers but the key is to protect them from spring slugs!
The prominent seed cones are absolutely beloved by goldfinches in winter, so resist the urge to deadhead everything. I always tell clients to deadhead about half the flowers to encourage more blooms, but leave half to set seed. The clumps gradually expand to create lovely natural drifts, and it combines beautifully with grasses.
While the original purple species is fantastic, ‘White Swan’ brings a completely different quality to prairie borders. Those pure white petals with bright orange cones create wonderful contrast against purple and pink companions, and they absolutely glow in evening light. I use this extensively in client gardens where we want a more sophisticated colour palette. It’s perfectly suited to prairie planting because it has all the drought tolerance and wildlife value of the species, but with that elegant white colouring that stops prairie borders looking too ‘wild’. The orange cones provide fantastic winter interest, and like all Echinacea, it’s a magnet for butterflies and bees.
If you want reliable, long-lasting colour in your prairie border, this is your plant. ‘Goldsturm’ produces masses of bright golden-yellow daisies with dark chocolate centres from August right through to the first hard frosts. It’s absolutely perfect for prairie planting because it provides that essential late-season colour when many other plants are finishing. What I particularly love about this variety is how it slowly spreads to form natural colonies without being a bully. Which is exactly the effect you want in a prairie border. The dark seed heads are fantastic for winter interest and provide food for birds. It’s also incredibly tough, slug proof, tolerating both drought and occasional waterlogging.
This gorgeous perennial brings some of the warmest, richest colours to prairie borders with its copper-red petals edged in golden yellow. The flowers have that lovely daisy form but with a much more sophisticated colour palette than basic yellow. What makes it perfect for prairie planting is its incredibly long flowering season.
Heleniums flower from July right through to September, it just keeps producing more blooms. I use it extensively in client gardens because it provides essential late-season nectar when butterflies really need it. The plants form lovely clumps that gradually expand, and it combines beautifully with purple Echinacea and feathery grasses. I;ve used these in nearly all my showgardens and have them here at Garden Ninja HQ, just an incredible blast of late summer colour!
These create the essential vertical elements that give prairie borders their distinctive architecture.
| Plant Name | Height | Flowering Period | Flower Form |
|---|---|---|---|
| Veronicastrum virginicum | 1.8m | July-September | Tall white/pink spires |
| Agastache rugosa | 1m | June-September | Purple-blue spikes |
| Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’ | 1.2m | July-September | Silvery stems, blue flowers |
| Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ | 45cm | May-September | Deep purple spikes |
This magnificent perennial is like having natural architecture in your prairie border. Those tall, elegant spires of white or pale pink flowers create fantastic vertical interest and provide structure even when not in flower. What makes it absolutely perfect for prairie planting is how it mimics the tall wildflowers of American prairies whilst being completely hardy in our climate. The flowers are incredibly attractive to bees and butterflies, and the seed heads provide excellent winter structure. I particularly love how it creates these lovely see-through effects – you can plant shorter perennials in front that weave through the base of the stems.
This is one of my absolute favourite plants for prairie borders because it flowers for such an incredibly long period – often from June right through to the first frosts. The purple-blue flower spikes have the most wonderful honey scent that attracts every bee for miles around. It’s perfectly suited to prairie planting because it provides that essential vertical interest whilst being incredibly drought tolerant. The plants slowly expand to form lovely colonies, and I love how the flower spikes move gently in the breeze. Even when not in flower, the aromatic foliage provides interesting texture and scent when brushed against a bit like citrus liquorice in my experience!
This stunning shrub-like perennial brings a completely different quality to prairie borders with its silvery-white stems and masses of tiny blue flowers. The whole plant has this lovely hazy, ethereal quality that’s perfect for creating those soft prairie effects. What makes it ideal for prairie planting is its incredible drought tolerance and long flowering season. The silvery foliage provides fantastic contrast against the greens of grasses and other perennials. I particularly love how it looks backlit by evening sun – the whole plant seems to glow. It’s also wonderfully aromatic when the foliage is brushed, adding an extra sensory dimension to your border. It’s a great alternative to lavender in other planting schemes too!
This compact perennial packs an incredible punch with its deep purple flower spikes held on dark purple-black stems. What I love about ‘Caradonna’ is how the flowers seem to glow against the dark stems – it creates this lovely dramatic effect in prairie borders. It’s perfect for prairie planting because it provides reliable colour for months on end, often flowering twice if you deadhead the first flush. The purple spikes create lovely vertical interest without being too tall, making it perfect for smaller prairie borders. Bees absolutely adore it, and it’s incredibly drought-tolerant once established.
These are your surprise elements – used sparingly to add spontaneity and prevent the border looking too controlled.
| Plant Name | Height | Special Quality | Where to Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Verbascum bombyciferum | 2m | Dramatic silver rosettes, tall spikes | Single specimens through border |
| Allium hollandicum | 1m | Purple globes on tall stems | Groups of 3-5 scattered through |
| Verbena bonariensis | 1.5m | See-through purple flowers | Weave through other plantings |
| Eryngium giganteum | 1.2m | Silvery thistle-like flowers | Single accents in sunny spots |
This absolutely spectacular biennial brings the most incredible drama to prairie borders with its huge silver-felted rosettes and towering spikes of yellow flowers. What makes it perfect as a scatter plant is how it creates these fantastic focal points throughout the border – like natural exclamation marks! The first year plants form these gorgeous silver rosettes that look beautiful throughout winter, then in the second year they send up those magnificent tall flower spikes. I love using it in prairie borders because it self-seeds gently, appearing in different spots each year and creating that natural, unplanned effect that’s so essential to good prairie design. The silvery foliage provides stunning contrast against the greens of grasses and perennials.
These fantastic bulbs bring a completely different flower form to prairie borders with their perfect spheres of purple flowers held on tall, elegant stems. What makes them ideal as scatter plants is how you can plant them throughout the border to create these lovely surprise pops of colour. They flower at exactly the right time – late spring/early summer – to bridge the gap between spring bulbs and the main prairie display. The spherical seed heads are fantastic for extending interest, and they look wonderful scattered amongst grasses. I always plant them in small groups of 3-5 rather than large drifts to maintain that spontaneous, scattered effect. Bees absolutely love the flowers, and the seed heads provide food for finches.
This incredible perennial is like having purple confetti scattered throughout your prairie border. The masses of tiny purple flowers are held on tall, branching stems that you can see right through – perfect for weaving through other plantings. What makes it absolutely brilliant for prairie borders is how it self-seeds to create naturalistic effects whilst never being invasive. It provides essential late-season nectar that butterflies absolutely adore, and I love how it creates these lovely hazy purple effects throughout the border. The tall stems move beautifully in the breeze, adding essential movement to complement the grasses. In milder areas, it often survives winter, but even where it doesn’t, the self-seeding ensures continuity.
This ghostly beautiful biennial adds an otherworldly quality to prairie borders with its silvery-blue thistle-like flowers surrounded by dramatic spiky bracts. What makes it perfect as a scatter plant is its ability to appear unexpectedly throughout the border – it self-seeds with such enthusiasm that it literally ‘haunts’ gardens for years! The silvery-blue colouring provides fantastic contrast against warmer tones, and the flowers are incredibly long-lasting, often persisting well into winter. Bees and butterflies adore the nectar-rich flowers, and the architectural seed heads provide stunning winter interest. Use it sparingly as single specimens for maximum impact.
Creating a prairie border isn’t rocket science, but it does require proper planning and patience. I’ve made every mistake possible over the years, so let me save you the grief! Here’s my tried-and-tested method that’s worked brilliantly for clients from Cornwall to Scotland.
Site Requirements Checklist:
| Soil Type | Preparation Method | Timeline | Key Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heavy Clay | Extensive improvement needed | 6-12 months before planting | Add 10cm coarse grit, 10cm compost, create raised beds if necessary |
| Sandy | Moderate improvement | 2-3 months before planting | Add 7cm well-rotted manure, mulch heavily |
| Loam | Light preparation | 4-6 weeks before planting | Light cultivation, 5cm compost incorporation |
Heavy clay presents the biggest challenge for prairie gardens, but don’t let that put you off! The key is extensive preparation that transforms the soil structure. Clay holds too much water and doesn’t warm up quickly enough for most prairie plants. You’ll need to add coarse grit (not sand, which makes concrete!) and plenty of organic matter. I often recommend creating raised beds on clay soil – it gives you much better drainage and allows the soil to warm up faster in spring. The investment in preparation pays dividends because once established, prairie plants on improved clay can be incredibly robust.
Sandy soil is actually easier to work with than clay for prairie gardens, but it has its own challenges – mainly that it drains too quickly and doesn’t hold nutrients well. The solution is adding plenty of organic matter to improve water retention and provide slow-release nutrients. Well-rotted manure is perfect because it adds structure and feeds the soil. Mulching heavily after planting is essential to prevent the soil drying out too quickly. Many prairie plants actually prefer sandy conditions once established, so you’re often working with the soil rather than against it.
Lucky you if you have loam! This is the ideal soil for prairie gardens and needs minimal preparation. Light cultivation to break up any compaction and a modest amount of compost is usually all that’s required. The key with loam is not to over-improve it. Prairie plants actually prefer lean conditions and can become too lush and floppy if the soil is too rich. A light touch is all that’s needed to create perfect prairie conditions.
| Garden Size | Maximum Species | Matrix Plants | Primary Plants |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small (under 20m²) | 7-10 species | 3-4 grass types | 4-5 perennials |
| Medium (20-50m²) | 12-15 species | 4-5 grass types | 6-8 perennials |
| Large (50m²+) | 15-20+ species | 5-6 grass types | 8-12 perennials |
Working with limited space requires discipline and restraint. The temptation is to cram in too many different plants, but this creates chaos rather than the cohesive prairie effect you’re after. Focus on 7-10 species maximum and use them in sufficient quantities to create impact. Three or four grass types provide your structure, whilst 4-5 carefully chosen perennials give you colour and wildlife value. The key is repetition – plant the same species in multiple small groups rather than one of everything. This creates unity and the authentic prairie feel even in tiny spaces.
This is the sweet spot for prairie gardens as they are large enough to create proper drifts but not so large that maintenance becomes overwhelming. With 12-15 species, you can create real seasonal interest whilst maintaining coherence. Use 4-5 grass types to provide structure throughout the year, and choose 6-8 perennials that flower at different times to extend the season. You can start experimenting with larger drifts and more dramatic combinations. This size allows you to create multiple interest areas within the overall prairie theme.
Large gardens allow you to really capture the essence of authentic prairie landscapes. With 15-20+ species, you can create complex layered plantings that evolve throughout the seasons. Use 5-6 grass types to provide varied structure and height, complemented by 8-12 perennials for extended flowering interest. The key is working in much larger drifts – groups of 15-25 plants create the dramatic sweeps that make large prairie gardens so spectacular. You can also incorporate subtle pathways and viewing areas to allow people to experience the garden from within.
Creating successful prairie borders across the UK requires understanding our diverse regional climate challenges. After designing prairie gardens from the Scottish Highlands to the Cornish coast, I’ve learned which adaptations are essential for success in different parts of our wonderful but unpredictable country.
Climate Challenges:
| American Prairie Original | Northern UK Alternative | Why the Adaptation Works |
|---|---|---|
| Panicum virgatum | Calamagrostis x acutiflora | Better cool-season performance, earlier growth |
| Echinacea pallida | Echinacea purpurea | More reliable flowering in cooler summers |
| Solidago speciosa | Solidago rugosa ‘Fireworks’ | Improved disease resistance in humid conditions |
For gardens in Yorkshire, Northumberland, and the Lake District, focus on plants that thrive in high rainfall and occasional late frosts. Calamagrostis varieties are absolutely brilliant because they start growing much earlier than warm-season American grasses. I always recommend Astilbe varieties for shadier spots – whilst not traditional prairie plants, they provide similar texture and cope beautifully with northern conditions. Persicaria amplexicaulis varieties are fantastic for adding late-season colour and actually prefer the cooler, moister conditions.
In Scotland, particularly in highland areas, wind protection becomes crucial. I often use hardy shrubs like Betula pendula (silver birch) or Sorbus aucuparia (rowan) as windbreaks, positioning them to protect the prairie planting while maintaining an open feel. Choose compact grass varieties that strong winds won’t flatten – Festuca glauca varieties work brilliantly and provide lovely blue-grey colouring. Sedum varieties are excellent for adding late-season interest and are completely bulletproof in harsh conditions.
Climate Challenges:
| Standard Prairie Plant | Southern UK Heat-Lover | Drought Adaptation Benefits |
|---|---|---|
| Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’ | Helenium ‘Sahhin’s Early Flowerer’ | Earlier flowering avoids summer stress |
| Aster novi-belgii | Symphyotrichum ericoides | Superior drought tolerance |
| Monarda didyma | Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’ | Mediterranean origins, heat-loving |
In areas like Kent, Surrey, and Hampshire, I increasingly recommend Mediterranean alternatives that capture the prairie spirit whilst thriving in hotter, drier conditions. Lavandula varieties provide a similar texture to prairie grasses whilst being incredibly drought-tolerant. Perovskia species are absolutely fantastic as they look entirely at home in prairie schemes while thriving in drought. Sedum spectabile varieties provide essential late-season nectar and store water in their succulent leaves.
Unique Coastal Challenges:
| Inland Prairie Plant | Coastal Alternative | Salt Tolerance Benefits |
|---|---|---|
| Miscanthus sinensis | Spartina pectinata | Natural salt marsh origins |
| Echinacea purpurea | Armeria maritima varieties | Coastal native with similar form |
| Rudbeckia fulgida | Anthemis tinctoria | Mediterranean coastal origins |
For gardens in coastal Scotland and Wales, wind protection is absolutely essential. I often recommend creating sheltered microclimates using native shrubs like Hippophae rhamnoides (sea buckthorn) or Tamarix species. These provide essential wind protection whilst complementing the prairie aesthetic. Grasses like Ammophila arenaria (marram grass) can be incorporated to create authentic coastal prairie effects.
Along the English coast, particularly in Cornwall, Devon, and Dorset, you can get away with much more exotic plant combinations. Agapanthus varieties provide fantastic late-season colour and cope brilliantly with coastal conditions. Crocosmia varieties give you that essential orange and red colouring whilst being completely salt-tolerant. Phormium varieties provide dramatic architectural interest whilst thriving in coastal winds.
City-Specific Challenges:
| Sensitive Prairie Plant | Urban Warrior Alternative | City Survival Traits |
|---|---|---|
| Stipa tenuissima | Pennisetum alopecuroides | Better pollution tolerance |
| Symphyotrichum species | Kalimeris incisa | Superior heat resistance |
| Helenium varieties | Rudbeckia triloba | Improved drought tolerance |
In cities like London, Birmingham, and Manchester, heat and pollution become major factors. I always recommend Buddleja varieties – whilst not traditional prairie plants, they provide similar late-season interest whilst thriving on neglect. Sedum varieties are absolutely brilliant for green roofs and containers. Verbena bonariensis performs fantastically in urban conditions, often self-seeding into the most unlikely spots.
For urban gardeners working with containers, focus on compact varieties that provide maximum impact in limited space. Hakonechloa macra varieties give you grass texture in small pots. Echinacea ‘PowWow’ series provides classic prairie flowers in compact form. Festuca glauca varieties are perfect for edging containers whilst providing year-round structure.
Planting up a prairie border is relatively simple. You need some restraint, full sun and a bit of creativity. Below are the steps to creating your perfect full-sun prairie garden. These borders provide mid to late-summer drama in the garden. Creating a carefree floating plant scheme which is both low maintenance and high impact.
In a small garden, to get the mass effect, you’re going to be maybe looking at 7-10 plant species maximum. In a larger herbaceous border, you may choose 20 or 30 plant species. It all depends on the size. Watching my video above may help you get some idea of how much your garden may need as a comparison.
If your soil has not been cultivated in a while or has compaction, you will need to dig it over. The soil will need to be free-draining for a prairie border. If you’re dealing with heavy clay soil, you may need to rethink your plans—that or dig in plenty of organic matter to break it up. Prairie plants such as grasses and herbaceous plants such as Echinaceas require free-draining soil by their very origin.
Group them in a minimum of 3 or 5 to start with. Depending on their ultimate growth, ensure there is enough space so they don’t strangle each other. Remember: This is mass-effect planting, so even if it feels odd putting so many together in one group, trust me, it will work!
You should layer your prairie border by using taller plants such as the grasses at the back and the smaller specimens at the front. Don’t be put off from breaking this rule every now and then, especially if you have space. Then you can create intrigue as to ‘what’s behind there?’.
You can happily use different cultivars of the same species to use slightly different hues of the same colour. I have demonstrated this with the Achillea by using Achillea ‘Terracotta’ and ‘Walther Funke’ together. This can take your planting detail to the next level!
Prairie borders don’t just need to be herbaceous. Why not add a small tree or shrub to give some proportion and scale to your border?
Fastigiate forms of trees are excellent at bringing height without taking up too much border space. They also provide structure during the months when the garden has been cut back, usually from March to April.
Prairie planting is a great choice if you’re short on time and don’t want to be deadheading and weeding every other night. As prairie borders are planted on mass a number of the plants should support themselves. I tend to find the flowering interest also lasts longer. This is because some plants will bloom slightly earlier than others in their flowering window.
As prairie planting is made up of herbaceous perennials they come back year after year. This means you can leave them after they have finished flowering through the winter months. The grasses will crisp up, giving a real texture to the border, and the herbaceous plants will leave seed heads, which are an excellent food source for birds and wildlife. Yes, a few bits may look a bit tatty, but you can simply snip these out or simply go with the flow of nature!
One of the beauties of prairie borders is they are relatively low maintenance requirements once established however, there are some key tasks that make the difference between a good prairie border and a spectacular one. So let me explain how to care for a prairie biorder the easy way!
This is your main annual task. Cut all growth back to 10-15cm above ground level after the worst winter weather has passed but before new growth begins. This feels bruital but is vital, a sharp breadknife or scythe is best, as you can see in my video guides further on in this blog.
Tools You’ll Need:
| Plant Type | Timing | Cut Height | Special Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ornamental grasses | Late March | 10-15cm | Leave later in cold areas |
| Late-flowering perennials | Early April | 5-10cm | After new growth visible |
| Evergreen perennials | Light trim only | Remove dead material | Don’t cut into live growth |
The annual cut-back of ornamental grasses is the most important maintenance task in your prairie garden calendar. Leave this too late and you risk cutting off new growth; do it too early and you lose valuable winter protection for the plant crowns. Late March is usually perfect timing – the worst winter weather has passed but new growth hasn’t started in earnest. Cut back to 10-15cm above ground level using sharp secateurs or hedge trimmers for large areas. In colder northern regions, you can leave this until early April to provide extra frost protection.
Plants like Echinacea, Rudbeckia, and Helenium benefit from being cut back to 5-10cm above ground level in early April. The key is waiting until you can see new growth starting from the base – this tells you the plant is waking up and ready for its annual haircut. Don’t be tempted to do this too early as the old stems provide valuable winter protection. The timing is crucial because cutting too late means you’re removing valuable new growth that the plant has already invested energy in producing.
Plants that retain some foliage through winter, such as certain Agastache varieties or Perovskia, need a gentler approach. Simply remove obviously dead or damaged material without cutting into live growth. These plants often benefit from being left largely intact, with just a light tidy-up to remove winter damage. Over-cutting evergreen perennials can seriously set them back and reduce flowering performance.
Summer maintenance should be minimal. Resist the urge to tidy too much – prairie borders are meant to look naturalistic!
Essential Summer Tasks:
Autumn is when prairie borders really shine. The seed heads, autumn colour, and late flowers create magic.
Selective Tasks:
Maintenance could not be easier with the method above. The only month of the year where any real effort is concerned is February. February, you may say! Yes! This is the perfect time to cut things right back to the ground. The grasses can be cut back with a pair of sharp shears. I love my Niwaki Japanese sheers because they are super sharp and fast.
It’s the same maintenance for the herbaceous perennials, simply cutting them down to the ground in late winter.
I tend to have a few specimens like Carex that don’t require any real maintenance because they keep some structure during the wintertime. Also, if you have followed my guidance on trees and potential prairie shrubs in the video above, you will know exactly why I have included these!
After years of answering questions from Garden Ninja community members, here are the queries that come up time and again. I’ve included the honest answers based on real experience, not just theory!
The Real Answer: Three full growing seasons for the complete prairie effect, though you’ll see progressive improvement each year.
Year-by-Year Breakdown:
This trips up loads of gardeners! Here’s the essential difference:
Prairie Planting:
Meadow Planting:
Short Answer: Yes, but it requires significant preparation and plant selection adjustments.
| Challenge | Solution | Timeline |
|---|---|---|
| Poor drainage | Raised beds or extensive soil improvement | 6-12 months prep |
| Heavy, airless soil | Add 25% by volume coarse grit/sand | Before planting |
| Slow warming | Choose later-flowering varieties | Plant selection |
Why Late Flowers Matter:
| Plant Name | Flowering Period | Flower Colour | Height |
|---|---|---|---|
| Symphyotrichum ericoides | September-November | White stars | 1m |
| Vernonia crinita | September-October | Purple clusters | 2m |
| Solidago rugosa ‘Fireworks’ | August-October | Golden sprays | 1m |
| Symphyotrichum laeve | September-October | Lavender-blue | 1.2m |
Why Late Flowers Matter:
The Honest Truth: Less than traditional borders once established, but it’s not maintenance-free!
| Season | Tasks | Time Required | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | Major cut-back and tidy | 4-6 hours per 50m² | Once yearly |
| Summer | Weeding, minimal intervention | 30 minutes monthly | May-August |
| Autumn | Selective seed collection | 1-2 hours | Once yearly |
| Winter | Enjoy the structure! | Minimal | December-February |
Compared to Traditional Borders:
Absolutely! Some of my most successful prairie projects have been in tiny urban gardens. The key is adapting the principles rather than the plant palette.
| Garden Size | Plant Selection | Design Approach |
|---|---|---|
| Under 10m² | 5-7 species max | Miniature prairie effect |
| 10-20m² | 7-10 species | Single themed border |
| 20-50m² | 10-15 species | Multiple interest areas |
Compact Prairie Plant Champions:
This comprehensive approach ensures your prairie border thrives in our unique British climate whilst capturing that essential prairie spirit that makes these gardens so captivating
Ready to transform your gardening skills beyond just harvesting pear trees? Garden Ninja’s expertly crafted online courses will fast-track your development from keen amateur to skilled garden designer in months rather than years. Starting at just £29, you’ll gain access to professional garden design expertise from BBC Garden Rescue’s Lee Burkhill, delivered at a fraction of traditional horticultural education costs.
Garden Design Examples for Small Gardens: 30 Design Templates & Planting Plans: In this online gardening course, I’ll walk you through 30 fantastic garden designs, explaining the logic behind the layout, the plant choices, and take-home tips for applying them in your own garden.
Learn how to transform and design your own garden with Lee Burkhills crash course in garden design. Over 5 hours Lee will teach you how to design your own dream garden. Featuring practical design examples, planting ideas and video guides. Learn how to design your garden in one weekend!
Garden Design for Beginners Online Course: If you want to make the career jump to becoming a garden designer or to learn how to design your own garden, this is the beginner course for you. Join me, Lee Burkhill, an award-winning garden designer, as I train you in the art of beautiful garden design.
What makes Garden Ninja courses so effective:
Prairie-style planting can be both high-impact and relatively low maintenance in a garden. Providing you have free-draining soil, which gets a fair share of sunlight, you’re set to create a super dramatic border. You have an exciting array of plant species to choose from, some are direct descendants of the American Prairie borders themselves, such as Carex. If you can resist the urge to choose too many species!
A Prairie border can provide food for bees and insects throughout the summer along with a dazzling display of colour. Even during the winter months, the border still delivers drama with its skeleton stems and dried seed heads. Imagine the photo opportunities whilst neighbouring gardens are looking bleak and barren!
Have you planted a Prairie border, or got pictures or advice you would like to share with the Garden Ninja community? Then let me know on social media where you can Tweet, Facebook or Instagram me! Why not subscribe to my Youtube channel for even more garden design hints and tips?
Happy Gardening!
You must be logged in to post a comment.
JOIN THE NINJAS
Be the first in line for new Guides, Discount codes and Offers
Thanks. I’m going to give it a try. I always thought that acres of land were needed!
Hi Linda, Many people think that. However even in a tiny border you can get the prairie look. Do post some pictures if you plant one! All the best. Lee
I just found your blog post about Prairie style gardening and I think you’re right. It’s a very nice way to create a garden. I was looking for some ideas on how to design and plant my small garden and your post was very useful! You’ve done such an amazing job on the pictures as well. Thank you so much for sharing this with us!
Hi Fraser. Great to hear from you.
I’m glad you like the prairie planting guide!!
Feel free to subscribe to my YouTube channel where there’s hundreds of how to gardening guides!
https://www.youtube.com/c/GardenninjaUk/
I have three acres of prairie (Weld county, Colorado), and there is a triangle down near the paved road that looks terrible. I’m going to plant it as a prairie garden! It gets full sun and grown weeds very well, so my plan is to cultivate it a little, add compost and plant very drought tolerant species! I’ll send before and after photos!