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Lancashire Rose Tree – are these long new canes rose growth or rootstock suckers?

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone with experience of standard roses can help.

I have two Lancashire weeping rose trees, both planted last year. One of them has produced three extremely vigorous new canes this season, each now around 3 metres (10 feet) long.

They first started growing around the beginning of May, and it's now 20th July.

What I'm struggling to work out is whether these are:

  • genuine new shoots from the rose that I should keep and train, or
  • rootstock suckers that should be removed.

From what I can see:

  • Two of the canes emerge from the base of the head, just above the graft/union.
  • The third cane appears to come from the top of the graft where all the other flowering branches originate.

I've attached photos of the base and graft union, unfortunately I couldn't add any more images because of file size limit.

 

The canes have very long internodes, very few side shoots at the moment, and they seem much more vigorous than the rest of the tree, which is why I'm unsure.

My questions are:

  1. Do these look like normal rose canes or rootstock suckers?
  2. If they are genuine rose shoots, should I leave them, shorten them, or train them?
  3. If they are suckers, is it safe to remove them now, and what's the best way to do it?

I'd really appreciate any advice. I don't want to remove valuable new growth if it belongs to the rose, but equally I don't want the rootstock taking over.

Thanks in advance!

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Hi @edenrose!

Thanks for such a detailed question and the photo; it's really helpful for working out what's going on. Looking at the image, I can see exactly what you're dealing with, and you've done a brilliant job of describing the situation so clearly.

Are these suckers or genuine rose growth?

The honest answer is that whilst these canes aren't true suckers in the classic sense, the distinction matters less than you might think when it comes to what you should do with them. True rootstock suckers emerge from below the graft union, often from the roots themselves, and the leaves typically look quite different from the grafted variety above. What you're describing, with two canes emerging from the base of the head just above the union and one from the top of the graft, suggests these are likely shoots from the rootstock or very low on the graft, rather than genuine growth from your Lancashire Weeping rose variety.

The extremely long internodes and exceptional vigour you're describing are a classic giveaway. Your Lancashire Weeping will produce new canes, but they should generally match the growth habit and vigour of the rest of the tree. When you get canes that are dramatically more vigorous than everything else and shooting away at a completely different rate, that's usually a strong sign they're not contributing to the shape and character you want from this plant.

Why this matters for your standard rose shape

This is the really important bit. Even if these canes do technically belong to the rose rather than the rootstock, leaving them on a standard rose is still going to cause you problems. The entire point of a standard rose is that beautifully balanced lollipop shape at the top of a clear stem. Those three enormous canes, now reaching three metres and growing at pace, are drawing an enormous amount of the plant's energy and resources away from the weeping head where you actually want it.

Think of it like having a beautifully shaped topiary ball with three enormous branches shooting off in random directions. The plant will keep feeding those vigorous canes because they're the path of least resistance, and the weeping head you've carefully maintained will gradually lose its vigour, produce fewer flowers, and start to look sparse and weak. Left unchecked over a season or two, those canes can fundamentally alter the character of the tree you've invested in.

What to do now

Remove all three canes as cleanly as possible, cutting back to the point of origin with sharp, clean secateurs. For the two emerging from the base of the head, cut as flush to the union as you comfortably can without damaging the surrounding bark. For the one emerging from within the head itself, trace it back carefully and remove it at its origin point. The cleaner the cut, the less likely you are to get regrowth from the same spot.

Keep an eye on these areas through the rest of the season, as vigorous rootstock growth in particular has a habit of trying again once it's been removed. If new shoots appear from the same points, remove them promptly before they put on the kind of growth you're dealing with now.

Further Reading on Roses

For more guidance on rose care and keeping your standard in great shape, these guides will help:

Happy gardening!

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Lee Burkhill - Garden Ninja

Lee Burkhill

Lee Burkhill, known as the Garden Ninja, is an award-winning garden designer and horticulturist with over 30 years of gardening experience and 15 years as a professional garden designer. A qualified RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) professional, Lee specialises in sustainable garden design and practical horticultural advice. He designs and presents on BBC1’s Garden Rescue and in leading gardening publications. Lee combines three decades of hands-on gardening knowledge with professional design qualifications to help gardeners create beautiful, functional outdoor spaces.

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