Spotted your prized monstera looking more yellow than Instagram-worthy green? Before you panic and start googling “plant funeral services,” take a deep breath. After years of rescuing countless monstera from the brink of houseplant disaster (and fielding panicked messages from fellow plant parents), I’ve cracked the code on diagnosing and fixing yellowing monstera leaves. Whether you’re dealing with one suspicious yellow leaf or a full-scale foliage crisis, this guide will help you understand exactly what’s happening and how to nurse your green giant back to its former glory.
Your monstera’s yellow leaves aren’t necessarily a death sentence. Monstera’s yellowing leaves are actually your plant’s way of communicating with you. From overwatering disasters to light issues, I’ll guide you through the most common culprits behind monstera yellowing and provide you with practical, tried-and-tested solutions that actually work. By the end of this guide, you’ll know exactly how to diagnose your plant’s problem and get those leaves back to their deep, glossy green.
This page contains affiliate links (see full details here). If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I personally use and trust at Garden Ninja HQ.
Yellowing monstera leaves, known scientifically as chlorosis, can stem from several interconnected factors. Understanding these causes is crucial because the solution depends entirely on accurate diagnosis; treating the wrong problem can actually make things worse for your struggling plant.
Most monstera yellowing falls into five main categories:
The key is learning to read the subtle differences in how yellowing presents itself, as each cause creates distinct patterns and symptoms.
Unlike outdoor plants that face seasonal changes, indoor monsteras experience relatively stable conditions, which means yellowing is usually a direct response to care issues rather than natural cycles. This actually works in your favour once you identify and correct the problem; recovery is often swift and dramatic.
Your monstera’s yellowing pattern tells a story. Lower, older leaves yellowing one at a time suggest natural ageing or slight underwatering. Multiple leaves across the plant yellowing quickly point to overwatering or root problems. Yellowing that starts from leaf edges indicates light or humidity issues.
Understanding your plant’s normal appearance helps you spot problems early. Healthy monstera leaves should be deep green, glossy, and firm to the touch. Any deviation from this baseline, whether yellowing, browning, or wilting, indicates your plant needs attention.
If the leaves are naturally yellowing (more on that in this guide), then yes, remove fully yellowed leaves promptly to prevent them from becoming pest harbours or disease entry points. Cut as close to the main stem as possible using clean, sharp scissors to avoid damage or infection. However, if the leaves are just starting to yellow and are fresh, younger leaves with still plenty of green chlorophyll in them, then follow either the watering or light damage fixes below before removing them!
Fully yellow Monstera leaves will never recover back to green, so if thats the case, remove them with sharp ‘snip’ secateurs, which are especially created for houseplants instead.
Overwatering ranks as the number one cause of monstera yellowing, responsible for roughly 70% of the cases I encounter. This is usually because Monstera owners want the very best for their houseplant and often kill it with kindness through excessive watering and overfeeding.
This problem develops gradually, making it particularly insidious by the time you notice yellowing, root damage may already be underway.
When soil remains consistently wet, monstera roots literally suffocate. These tropical plants evolved in rainforest conditions with excellent drainage, where water moves through quickly rather than pooling around roots. Waterlogged soil creates anaerobic conditions that prevent roots from accessing oxygen, leading to root rot and subsequent yellowing.
The yellowing from overwatering typically starts with lower leaves and progresses upward. Affected leaves often feel soft or mushy rather than crisp, and you might notice a general wilting despite wet soil. The plant appears listless and growth slows dramatically.
Check your soil by inserting a finger 5 to 7 centimetres deep. If it feels consistently moist or waterlogged days after watering, you’re likely dealing with overwatering. Healthy monstera soil should feel slightly damp but not soggy, with clear wet and dry cycles between waterings.
Look for these additional overwatering warning signs: musty or sour smell from the soil, fungus gnats flying around the plant, or black, mushy roots visible at drainage holes. Advanced cases may show stem softening near the soil line.
Stop watering immediately and assess the damage. Remove your monstera from its pot and examine the root system. Healthy roots should be white or cream coloured and firm to the touch. Black, brown, or mushy roots indicate rot and must be removed with sterilised scissors.
Trim away all damaged roots, cutting back to healthy white tissue. This might seem drastic, but monsteras can recover from surprisingly extensive root pruning. After removing damaged roots, let the plant sit out of soil for several hours to dry slightly.
Repot in fresh, well draining potting mix anf never reuse old soil that’s been waterlogged. Choose a pot with multiple drainage holes and avoid saucers that might trap water. Water lightly after repotting, then wait until the top few centimetres of soil dry before watering again.
Recovery from overwatering takes patience. Don’t expect immediate improvement it may take several weeks for new healthy growth to appear. During this time, provide bright indirect light and avoid fertilising, as damaged roots can’t process nutrients effectively.
Moving forward, water only when the top 2 to 3 centimetres of soil feel dry. In winter, this might mean watering every 10 to 14 days, while summer watering might occur weekly. The key is responding to your plant’s actual needs rather than following a rigid schedule.
Whilst overwatering gets more attention, underwatering causes significant monstera yellowing, particularly during warmer months when these fast growing plants consume water rapidly. Unlike overwatering, underwatering yellowing typically affects the entire plant more uniformly across all leaves.
Monsteras are surprisingly thirsty plants during their growing season. Their large leaves lose substantial moisture through transpiration, and their vigorous growth requires consistent hydration. When water becomes scarce, the plant prioritises survival by shutting down older leaves first.
Underwatering yellowing often starts with leaves becoming pale or losing their deep green colour before progressing to yellow. The yellowing usually affects older, lower leaves first, but can quickly spread throughout the plant if water stress continues.
Physical symptoms include leaves feeling papery or crisp rather than soft, leaf edges browning or crisping, and the entire plant appearing to droop despite firm stems. The soil will feel dry several centimetres down, and the pot may feel surprisingly light when lifted.
Unlike overwatering, underwatered monsteras often show rapid improvement once watering resumes. However, severely yellowed leaves won’t recover their green colour and should be removed to redirect energy to healthy growth.
Begin by giving your monstera a thorough drink, watering until water flows from drainage holes. Don’t be tempted to flood the plant steady, thorough watering is more effective than drowning it in guilt driven overcompensation Ninjas!
If the soil has become severely dry and water runs straight through without being absorbed, your potting mix may have become hydrophobic. Place the entire pot in a tray of water for 30 to 60 minutes, allowing soil to rehydrate from the bottom up.
Monitor soil moisture more closely going forward. The “finger test” remains the most reliable method — stick your finger 2 to 3 centimetres into the soil. When this top layer feels dry but deeper soil remains slightly moist, it’s time to water.
Consider your environmental conditions when establishing watering routines. Central heating, air conditioning, bright light, and active growth all increase water consumption. Summer monsteras may need watering twice weekly, while winter plants might go 10 to 14 days between drinks.
Consistency matters more than frequency. Establishing regular monitoring habits helps you catch problems early, before stress-induced yellowing begins. I recommend checking soil moisture every few days during growing season, adjusting based on what you find.
Learn your plant’s seasonal rhythm. Monstera grow actively from spring through autumn, requiring more frequent watering during this period. Winter growth slows, and watering needs decrease accordingly.
Consider environmental factors that affect water loss. Plants near heating vents, in sunny windows, or in low humidity environments will need more frequent watering. Moving your monstera during winter heating season might require adjusting your watering schedule.
Monsteras have specific light requirements that, when unmet, manifest as yellowing leaves. These tropical plants evolved in rainforest understoreys, receiving bright but filtered light rather than direct sun or deep shade. Getting light balance right prevents most yellowing issues.
Insufficient light causes gradual yellowing that often goes unnoticed until well established. Low light yellowing typically affects the entire plant, starting with a general pale appearance that progresses to yellow over weeks or months.
Plants receiving inadequate light lose their vibrant green colour, developing a pale, washed out appearance. Growth slows dramatically, and new leaves remain small without developing the characteristic splits (fenestrations) that make monsteras so appealing.
In severe low light conditions, monsteras become leggy, with long spaces between leaves as the plant stretches toward any available light source. This etiolated growth weakens the plant and makes it more susceptible to other problems.
Direct sunlight burns monstera leaves, initially creating yellow or pale patches that quickly progress to brown, crispy areas. Unlike gradual low light yellowing, sun damage appears rapidly and affects leaves unevenly based on sun exposure patterns.
Sunburn typically starts as bleached yellow spots on leaves facing the light source, progressing to brown, papery patches with clearly defined edges. Severely burned leaves won’t recover and should be removed to prevent energy waste.
Even intense indirect light can overwhelm monsteras if introduced suddenly. Plants moved from low light to bright conditions often show stress yellowing as they adjust to increased light intensity.
Position your monstera in bright, indirect light near but not directly in front of east facing windows, or several feet back from south facing windows. The light should be bright enough to read comfortably, but your hand shouldn’t cast sharp shadows on nearby surfaces.
Morning sun through east windows is generally safe for monsteras, as it’s gentler than intense afternoon sun. South and west windows often require sheer curtains or positioning plants 1 to 2 metres back from the glass to prevent burning.
North facing windows rarely provide sufficient light for optimal monstera growth, though plants can survive in these locations. If north facing windows are your only option, consider supplementing with grow lights during winter months.
Seasonal light adjustments help maintain consistent growing conditions. Summer’s intense light may require moving plants further from windows, while winter’s weaker light might necessitate moving them closer or adding artificial lighting.
LED grow lights offer excellent control over your monstera’s lighting environment, particularly useful in darker homes or during winter months especially if you live in a north-facing apartment or rental property. Full spectrum LEDs positioned 30 to 60 centimetres above the plant provide ideal supplementation.
Aim for 12 to 16 hours of combined natural and artificial light during the growing season, reducing to 10 to 12 hours in winter. Gradually introduce grow lights over several days to prevent shock, starting with shorter periods and building to full duration. I have used these Grow lights to achieve great results in shadier rooms here at Garden Ninja HQ, and they’re extremely cost-effective, especially during the winter months.
Quality matters more than intensity with grow lights. Choose full-spectrum LEDs with good customer reviews rather than cheap alternatives that may not provide appropriate light wavelengths for plant growth.
Not all monstera yellowing indicates problems; some leaf loss represents natural ageing that’s perfectly healthy. Even I have healthy monstera plants that, every now and then, have yellow leaves as part of their ageing process. Understanding normal ageing patterns prevents unnecessary worry and inappropriate interventions that might harm your plant.
Natural ageing typically affects the oldest, lowest leaves first, progressing slowly and affecting only one or two leaves at a time. These leaves gradually fade from deep green to pale green, then to yellow, before eventually browning and falling off.
Ageing leaves often show uniform yellowing across the entire leaf rather than patchy or edge-based yellowing characteristic of care problems. The yellowing progresses slowly over several weeks, giving the plant time to reabsorb nutrients before leaf drop.
This process accelerates during active growing seasons when plants focus energy on new growth. Spring and summer often see increased leaf turnover as monsteras prioritise resources for fresh, vigorous foliage over maintaining older leaves.
Leaf ageing serves important biological functions. As leaves age, their photosynthetic efficiency decreases while maintenance costs remain high. Shedding older leaves allows plants to redirect energy toward more productive new growth.
Before dropping ageing leaves, monsteras systematically withdraw valuable nutrients. Plants withdraw nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which causes the older leaves to turn yellow. These withheld nutrients are saved and used for reuse in newer growth. This process causes the characteristic yellowing as chlorophyll breaks down and nutrients transfer to other plant parts. Clever eh!
Young, rapidly growing monstera plants may exhibit more frequent leaf turnover than mature plants. This isn’t concerning, provided new growth continues and the overall plant remains healthy and vigorous.
While some leaf ageing is normal, excessive or rapid leaf loss indicates underlying problems, i.e 1/3 or more leaves turning yellow at the same time and then dropping. More than one or two leaves yellowing simultaneously suggests plant stress rather than natural ageing.
Ageing should affect only the oldest leaves. If newer or middle-aged leaves start yellowing, investigate environmental conditions, watering practices, or potential pest issues. Natural ageing never affects the entire plant rapidly.
Several common houseplant pests can cause monstera yellowing, often going undetected until damage becomes visible. These tiny invaders weaken plants by feeding on plant juices, leading to yellowing, wilting, and general decline if left untreated.
The microscopic menace, Spider mites, creates characteristic yellowing that starts as tiny yellow speckles on leaves, gradually coalescing into larger yellow areas. These pinprick-sized pests thrive in warm, dry conditions common in heated homes during winter.
Early spider mite damage appears as stippling which is countless tiny yellow dots across leaf surfaces where mites have fed. Advanced infestations show more extensive yellowing, fine webbing on leaf undersides, and severely weakened plants. You’ll notice this sticking to your fingers when cleaning the leaves!
Check for spider mites by examining leaf undersides looking for tiny moving specks or fine webbing. I find that they appear at the very bottom of the leaf where it joins the stem first!
The plant juice thieves. Thrips cause silvery yellow streaking across monstera leaves, creating a distinctive “bleached” appearance quite different from other types of yellowing. These slender, fast-moving insects are difficult to spot but leave characteristic damage patterns.
Thrips feeding creates pale, silvery patches that may appear almost metallic in certain light. Affected areas eventually turn yellow and brown, and heavily infested leaves may become completely chlorotic.
Look for thrips by gently tapping leaves over white paper and watching for tiny, elongated insects. Adult thrips are about 1 to 2 millimetres long and may be yellow, brown, or black depending on species.
The stubborn suckers, Scale insects, appear as small, brown or white bumps attached to stems and leaf undersides. These armoured pests are particularly insidious because they’re easily mistaken for natural plant features until infestations become severe.
Scale feeding causes gradual yellowing and weakening, often starting with lower leaves and progressing upward. Heavily infested plants show widespread yellowing, stunted growth, and general decline.
Remove scale insects individually using alcohol soaked cotton swabs, or apply systemic insecticides for severe infestations. These pests’ protective covering makes them resistant to many contact treatments.
Begin treatment immediately upon discovering pests, as their populations can rapidly increase in indoor conditions. Isolate affected plants to prevent spread to other houseplants.
For spider mites and thrips, start with strong water sprays to remove pests physically, then apply insecticidal soap or neem oil according to package directions. Repeat treatments every 5 to 7 days for several weeks to break pest life cycles. A simple solution of washing up liquid to water 1:4 in a spray bottle will soon get rid of most pests, scale insects a cotton wool bud dabbed in vodka and applied to their scales works well too! Avoid nasty checmical sprays and man made treatments, they will cause more harm than good!
Monsteras are surprisingly sensitive to environmental changes, and stress from temperature fluctuations, humidity extremes, or air quality issues often manifests as yellowing leaves. Understanding these factors helps create stable growing conditions that prevent stress-related problems.
Cold drafts from windows, doors, or air conditioning vents can cause rapid yellowing, particularly on leaves closest to the cold source. Similarly, hot air from heating vents or radiators creates localised stress that shows as yellowing or browning.
Temperature shock from moving plants between different environments This happens when bringing plants home from garden centres which commonly triggers yellowing within days or weeks of the change. This stress response is temporary but concerning for new plant parents.
Maintain consistent temperatures between 18-27°C for optimal monstera health. Avoid placing plants near heat sources, cold windows, or areas with temperature fluctuations greater than 5-6°C between day and night.
Low humidity, particularly common during winter heating season, stresses monsteras and can contribute to yellowing. These tropical plants prefer humidity levels around 50-60%, significantly higher than typical home environments.
Extremely low humidity (below 30%) causes leaf edges to brown and yellow before affecting entire leaves. Plants may also show slower growth and increased susceptibility to pest problems in very dry conditions.
Increase humidity using humidifiers, humidity trays, or by grouping plants together. Avoid misting directly onto leaves, as this can promote fungal problems without significantly improving local humidity.
Household chemicals, cleaning products, and aerosols can damage monstera leaves, causing yellowing or brown spots that appear suddenly after exposure. Even products used in nearby areas can affect sensitive plants. However, this, in my experience, is mega rare unless you’re in a small room or flat and using a lot of harsh chemical cleaning products (oven cleaner sprays, I’m looking at you!).
Understanding monstera recovery helps set realistic expectations and prevents premature panic when improvement seems slow. Different yellowing causes have different recovery timeframes, and patience is crucial for successful plant rehabilitation.
Correctly diagnosed and treated problems often show improvement within days. Underwatered plants may perk up within hours of proper watering, while overwatered plants take longer to show a positive response.
Don’t expect yellowed leaves to return to green once yellowing begins; leaves won’t recover their original colour. Focus on preventing further yellowing and encouraging new healthy growth rather than trying to save damaged leaves. Which is why removing yellowing leaves is often a better approach.
Remove fully yellowed leaves promptly, but leave partially green leaves until they’re completely yellow. This allows the plant to reclaim nutrients while preventing energy waste on non-functional foliage.
New growth appearance signals successful problem resolution. Healthy new leaves emerging from the growing tip indicate your monstera is recovering and redirecting energy toward future growth.
Growth rates vary seasonally, with spring and summer recovery occurring faster than autumn or winter rehabilitation. Be patient with winter recovery, as reduced light and cooler temperatures naturally slow plant processes.
Continue consistent care during recovery, avoiding the temptation to “help” with extra fertiliser or frequent watering. Stressed plants need stability more than intensive intervention.
Complete recovery to pre-problem health may take several months, particularly for severely stressed plants or those that required root pruning. This extended timeline is normal and expected for major interventions. Monitor overall plant health rather than focusing on individual leaves. Steady new growth, improving leaf size and colour, and general vigour indicate successful recovery even if some older damage remains visible.
Stop dreaming about stunning gardens and start designing them! Lee Burkhill’s online garden design courses are your shortcut from complete beginner to confident designer, all from the comfort of your sofa.
Garden Design Examples for Small Gardens: 30 Design Templates & Planting Plans: In this online gardening course, I’ll walk you through 30 fantastic garden designs, explaining the logic behind the layout, the plant choices, and take-home tips for applying them in your own garden.
Learn how to transform and design your own garden with Lee Burkhills crash course in garden design. Over 5 hours Lee will teach you how to design your own dream garden. Featuring practical design examples, planting ideas and video guides. Learn how to design your garden in one weekend!
Garden Design for Beginners Online Course: If you want to make the career jump to becoming a garden designer or to learn how to design your own garden, this is the beginner course for you. Join me, Lee Burkhill, an award-winning garden designer, as I train you in the art of beautiful garden design.
Rescuing a yellowing monstera is all about reading the signs and responding calmly rather than panicking at every leaf change. Remember, some yellowing is completely normal as these vigorous plants naturally shed older leaves whilst growing.
The secret to monstera success? Consistency beats constant fussing every time. Stable watering, proper lighting, and steady temperatures prevent most problems before they start. Your plant wants to thrive, so create the right conditions and step back!
Each challenge you overcome builds confidence and plant knowledge that benefits your entire houseplant collection. Whether it’s your first yellow leaf or nursing a plant back from disaster, most monstera problems are fixable with patience and observation.
Happy Monstera Growing Ninjas!
JOIN THE NINJAS
Be the first in line for new Guides, Discount codes and Offers
