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Quote from lauballa111 on 5th September 2025, 2:50 pmHello, I have 2 small apple trees in the garden, one, a ballerina flamenco, is thriving, the other, an Elstar, planted 2 years later suffered this year from a period of drought and then rain whilst we were away during the spring. Quite a few of its then small apples spilt. And later it has had leaves with rust spots that have died and been shed throughout the summer. I have watered them both regularly through the summer months.
The Elstar has areas that are like open wounds on the rootstock section of the trunk. I contacted the online company that I purchased the tree from as I was concerned that it was canker. They told me it is just where branches were removed at the nursery. It seems strange to me they would use such an abrasive approach since it doesn’t seem to heal from it.
I’m concerned that the tree is susceptible to disease with this damage. And wonder if that is why it has rust spots on the leaves. My main concern is that if it gets a fungal or bacterial disease it would pass it on to the other tree. (The two are next to each other.)
I’m considering taking the tree out and replacing it, but my partner says to give it another year to grow.
Any thoughts / advice would be appreciated!
Hello, I have 2 small apple trees in the garden, one, a ballerina flamenco, is thriving, the other, an Elstar, planted 2 years later suffered this year from a period of drought and then rain whilst we were away during the spring. Quite a few of its then small apples spilt. And later it has had leaves with rust spots that have died and been shed throughout the summer. I have watered them both regularly through the summer months.
The Elstar has areas that are like open wounds on the rootstock section of the trunk. I contacted the online company that I purchased the tree from as I was concerned that it was canker. They told me it is just where branches were removed at the nursery. It seems strange to me they would use such an abrasive approach since it doesn’t seem to heal from it.
I’m concerned that the tree is susceptible to disease with this damage. And wonder if that is why it has rust spots on the leaves. My main concern is that if it gets a fungal or bacterial disease it would pass it on to the other tree. (The two are next to each other.)
I’m considering taking the tree out and replacing it, but my partner says to give it another year to grow.
Any thoughts / advice would be appreciated!
Uploaded files:Quote from Lee Garden Ninja on 6th September 2025, 6:01 pmHi @lauballa111
Thanks for your detailed question and photos - this is exactly the kind of issue that benefits from a thorough assessment. Looking at your description, you're absolutely right to be concerned about those "open wounds" on the rootstock section of your Elstar apple tree. This doesn't sound like typical canker in my experience, but rather like water ingress and subsequent rot from poorly pruned off watershoots on the rootstock, which can be just as problematic for young trees.
What You're Actually Seeing
Based on your description of open wounds without the characteristic oozing associated with canker, this does indeed sound like water damage and early-stage rot. The combination of drought stress followed by heavy rain whilst you were away would have created perfect conditions for this type of damage. When trees are stressed by drought, their bark becomes more susceptible to cracking, and sudden water influx can cause further splitting, creating entry points for pathogens.
The nursery's explanation about branch removal wounds is partially plausible, but you're right to question their healing response. Professional nurseries should make clean cuts that heal within a season or two, rather than leaving open wounds that continue to deteriorate. Poor pruning cuts or damage during handling could certainly create the ongoing problems you're seeing. These water shoots should not leave open wounds like this in my professional opinion.
The Rust Spot Connection
The rust spots on the leaves and subsequent leaf drop you're describing are likely connected to the overall stress and compromised health of your tree. While the trunk wounds themselves might not directly cause leaf rust, a tree with damaged bark and potential root issues becomes much more susceptible to foliar diseases. Stressed trees simply don't have the resources to fight off infections that healthy trees would normally resist.
The pattern you're seeing - drought stress, sudden weather changes, trunk damage, and now foliar disease - all point to a tree that's struggling to cope with multiple stressors. Each problem compounds the others, creating a cascade of health issues.
Disease Transmission Risks
Your concern about disease transmission to the healthy Ballerina Flamenco is absolutely valid. Many fungal and bacterial diseases can spread between nearby apple trees through the dissemination of airborne spores, water splash, or the sharing of soil-borne organisms. If your Elstar develops a serious infection like fire blight or other bacterial diseases, it could indeed pose a risk to your healthy tree.
However, the proximity alone isn't necessarily a death sentence for the healthy tree. Good garden hygiene, proper spacing, and maintaining the health of the unaffected tree can help prevent transmission. The key is not letting the problem tree become a reservoir of disease that could overwhelm your garden's defences.
Treatment vs Replacement Decision
This is where you need to make a practical decision based on the tree's prospects and your risk tolerance. A two-year-old tree with significant trunk damage and ongoing health issues is unlikely to develop into the productive, healthy specimen you want. Young trees should be establishing strongly, not fighting multiple health battles.
Consider these factors in your decision. The tree is already showing multiple stress symptoms. Trunk wounds are notoriously difficult to heal and often worsen over time. You have a healthy tree nearby that could be at risk. Additionally, replacement costs for a young tree are relatively modest compared to the years of ongoing problems. Your partner's suggestion to give it another year isn't unreasonable, but you need to weigh the potential benefits against the risks.
If You Decide to Keep It
Should you choose to give the tree another year, here's how to give it the best chance of success. Clean up any loose bark around the wounds with a sharp, sterile knife, removing only clearly dead or diseased tissue. Don't try to "help" by cutting into healthy bark. You don't need to apply protective wound dressing or tree paint as these rarely work and can cause wounds to stay wet.
Improve drainage around the tree base if waterlogging was part of the problem. Ensure consistent but not excessive watering to avoid further stress cycles. Remove any infected leaves promptly to reduce disease pressure. Consider a balanced, slow-release fertiliser to help the tree build strength. Monitor closely for any signs of disease progression or new symptoms.
The Replacement Option
If you decide to replace the tree, which honestly sounds like the most sensible option given what you've described, choose a different variety for disease resistance and remove all the old root system to prevent any lingering pathogens. Plant in a slightly different location if possible, and improve soil drainage and preparation based on what you've learned.
Select a variety known for disease resistance and vigour in your area, and consider consulting your local garden centre about varieties that perform well in your specific conditions.
Related Tree Health Discussions
For more guidance on apple tree health and disease management, check out these helpful discussions:
• Problems with pears - Similar fruit tree health issues and treatments
• Oak tree suddenly turning brown - Tree stress and disease diagnosis
• Tree and hedge root spread - Understanding tree health and root issues
Essential Fruit Tree Care Guides
• How to Prune an Apple Tree: Ultimate Beginner Guide - Maintaining healthy apple trees
• How to prune a fruit tree in summer - Summer maintenance for tree health
• Winter Vs Summer Pruning: what's the difference? - Timing considerations for tree care
My honest assessment is that a young tree with the level of problems you're describing is unlikely to become the productive, healthy specimen you want. The combination of trunk damage, ongoing disease pressure, and stress responses suggests this tree will continue to struggle. Given that you have a healthy tree nearby that could be at risk, replacement might be the most sensible option.
Sometimes the kindest thing we can do is recognize when a plant isn't thriving and give ourselves the chance to start fresh with better prospects.
Happy gardening!
Hi @lauballa111
Thanks for your detailed question and photos - this is exactly the kind of issue that benefits from a thorough assessment. Looking at your description, you're absolutely right to be concerned about those "open wounds" on the rootstock section of your Elstar apple tree. This doesn't sound like typical canker in my experience, but rather like water ingress and subsequent rot from poorly pruned off watershoots on the rootstock, which can be just as problematic for young trees.
Based on your description of open wounds without the characteristic oozing associated with canker, this does indeed sound like water damage and early-stage rot. The combination of drought stress followed by heavy rain whilst you were away would have created perfect conditions for this type of damage. When trees are stressed by drought, their bark becomes more susceptible to cracking, and sudden water influx can cause further splitting, creating entry points for pathogens.
The nursery's explanation about branch removal wounds is partially plausible, but you're right to question their healing response. Professional nurseries should make clean cuts that heal within a season or two, rather than leaving open wounds that continue to deteriorate. Poor pruning cuts or damage during handling could certainly create the ongoing problems you're seeing. These water shoots should not leave open wounds like this in my professional opinion.
The rust spots on the leaves and subsequent leaf drop you're describing are likely connected to the overall stress and compromised health of your tree. While the trunk wounds themselves might not directly cause leaf rust, a tree with damaged bark and potential root issues becomes much more susceptible to foliar diseases. Stressed trees simply don't have the resources to fight off infections that healthy trees would normally resist.
The pattern you're seeing - drought stress, sudden weather changes, trunk damage, and now foliar disease - all point to a tree that's struggling to cope with multiple stressors. Each problem compounds the others, creating a cascade of health issues.
Your concern about disease transmission to the healthy Ballerina Flamenco is absolutely valid. Many fungal and bacterial diseases can spread between nearby apple trees through the dissemination of airborne spores, water splash, or the sharing of soil-borne organisms. If your Elstar develops a serious infection like fire blight or other bacterial diseases, it could indeed pose a risk to your healthy tree.
However, the proximity alone isn't necessarily a death sentence for the healthy tree. Good garden hygiene, proper spacing, and maintaining the health of the unaffected tree can help prevent transmission. The key is not letting the problem tree become a reservoir of disease that could overwhelm your garden's defences.
This is where you need to make a practical decision based on the tree's prospects and your risk tolerance. A two-year-old tree with significant trunk damage and ongoing health issues is unlikely to develop into the productive, healthy specimen you want. Young trees should be establishing strongly, not fighting multiple health battles.
Consider these factors in your decision. The tree is already showing multiple stress symptoms. Trunk wounds are notoriously difficult to heal and often worsen over time. You have a healthy tree nearby that could be at risk. Additionally, replacement costs for a young tree are relatively modest compared to the years of ongoing problems. Your partner's suggestion to give it another year isn't unreasonable, but you need to weigh the potential benefits against the risks.
Should you choose to give the tree another year, here's how to give it the best chance of success. Clean up any loose bark around the wounds with a sharp, sterile knife, removing only clearly dead or diseased tissue. Don't try to "help" by cutting into healthy bark. You don't need to apply protective wound dressing or tree paint as these rarely work and can cause wounds to stay wet.
Improve drainage around the tree base if waterlogging was part of the problem. Ensure consistent but not excessive watering to avoid further stress cycles. Remove any infected leaves promptly to reduce disease pressure. Consider a balanced, slow-release fertiliser to help the tree build strength. Monitor closely for any signs of disease progression or new symptoms.
If you decide to replace the tree, which honestly sounds like the most sensible option given what you've described, choose a different variety for disease resistance and remove all the old root system to prevent any lingering pathogens. Plant in a slightly different location if possible, and improve soil drainage and preparation based on what you've learned.
Select a variety known for disease resistance and vigour in your area, and consider consulting your local garden centre about varieties that perform well in your specific conditions.
For more guidance on apple tree health and disease management, check out these helpful discussions:
• Problems with pears - Similar fruit tree health issues and treatments
• Oak tree suddenly turning brown - Tree stress and disease diagnosis
• Tree and hedge root spread - Understanding tree health and root issues
• How to Prune an Apple Tree: Ultimate Beginner Guide - Maintaining healthy apple trees
• How to prune a fruit tree in summer - Summer maintenance for tree health
• Winter Vs Summer Pruning: what's the difference? - Timing considerations for tree care
My honest assessment is that a young tree with the level of problems you're describing is unlikely to become the productive, healthy specimen you want. The combination of trunk damage, ongoing disease pressure, and stress responses suggests this tree will continue to struggle. Given that you have a healthy tree nearby that could be at risk, replacement might be the most sensible option.
Sometimes the kindest thing we can do is recognize when a plant isn't thriving and give ourselves the chance to start fresh with better prospects.
Happy gardening!
Quote from lauballa111 on 7th September 2025, 8:13 pmThanks a lot for your detailed reply. It confirms a lot of what I was thinking. It makes most sense to replace the tree, though it has managed to produce a good little crop of apples. I definitely won’t be returning to the same website for a replacement!
Thanks a lot for your detailed reply. It confirms a lot of what I was thinking. It makes most sense to replace the tree, though it has managed to produce a good little crop of apples. I definitely won’t be returning to the same website for a replacement!
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